Could fine nothing wrong with cooling system, did diagnostic and found a leak in the intake manifold gasket. I didn't even go to the half mark once I cranked it again. Once you get the engine to roll forward, apply the brake, place the transmission in park and turn the vehicle off. It seemed to drag between shifts sometimes and now shifts smoother. So I have provided a link to a drawing the shows where it… There is a mounting problem with the factory ac condenser that causes it to crack on the left side near the middle. Even if they were going to fix it, it wouldn't cost anywhere near that amount.
The overheating occurs when the car is driven for extended durations…except for just after I replaced the hose clamps on the S-shaped hose on the front of the engine…I drove it for 20 minutes on the freeway, and it was doing just fine with the air conditioner blasting. The failure mileage was 123,000 and the current mileage was 126,000. Car gets hot very quickly. The main problem is the coolant was going inside the engine, no outside leaking to warn us. I will print this out and keep it in my glove box so that the next time I break down, I can let whoever stops to help me read it and they can do what you suggested. Did you remove the radiator cap and check the level in the radiator itself.
I'm gonna park the ole girl and make due somehow until income tax time rolls around. Check the heater core feed line also. I put a lot of money in it till it overheated on me many miles from home and blew a head gasket. First time repaired dealer had to order condenser. A failing head gasket would can force a bubble into the coolant. It caused the sensor to remain on due to allowing too much oxygen into the mix.
The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. Also associated was thermostat failure which could have caused engine overheating and fire before there was any means of knowing the engine was overheating. The thermostat, while a possible culprit, can be easily tested while still installed. When my head gasket went earlier this spring, this is what was happening. I haven't let it run to see just how high it will go.
Ac also stopped working, condenser seam split, right lower corner. The next morning, broke down on the side of the interstate - overheated. If you have someone who knows their way around cars, replacing the head gaskets isn't difficult, just very time consuming due to everything that you need to remove to get to them. Maybe have your mechanic check the output of your alternator. If the upper radiator suddenly becomes hot around 195 degrees when the car is idling, it's working correctly as the coolant just started to flow through. Mine started with sporatic overheating. The first time I spent over 300.
The coolant itself does not have that much thermal expansion. Good luck Nov 11, 2017 Have you replaced the intake manifold gaskets? We waited on the side of the road in the desert for the engine to cool to add water into the radiator. An air pocket can be trapped in the manifold and when the engine is off the residual heat of the engine cooks the gasket. In June 2008, we noticed a loss of coolant. Replaced the water pump, radiator hose and thermostat.
Just do the head gaskets and the intake at the same time so that you would certin that it's fixed. Now that the cooling system has been flushed and the thermostat changed I was hoping to not see a fluctuation in the temperature. It sounds like you were screwed over twice by repair shops. Properly filled, your engine shouldn't have any opportunity to suck in air since coolant is drawn from the bottom of the radiator. The first issue was a hole in a short, S-shaped hose that goes from the the air bleed valve on the top of the water pump, to a metal line that goes back to the heater coil…I think. We finally got home after 1 am, we were expected at 5 pm.
The contact stated that the antifreeze in her vehicle has corroded the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and intake valve. He says I did not have one dunno so I told him to put one. For instance, your bearings become damaged because your oil doesn't lubricate with antifreeze in it. We could only go about 10 miles before we'd have to stop and let the van cool down and add more coolant and water. Make sure you look for any obstructions or old gasket material floating in the antifreeze. Often it's around cylinder 1 but not always. I have not replaced any relays, fuses or fusible links to the fan, but I imagine the overheating is likely due to the fan not enganging when the coolant temp gets too high.